How to Build a Hanging Porch Swing Bed -- {Twin OR Crib Size!} (2023)


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In this video, I'll show you how to build a DIY porch swing bed! I'm sharing printable building plans below for both a TWIN and a CRIB size mattress swing bed in this design. So, let's get building!

Check out the step by step tutorial and plans here:

Check out the printable plans here:

This project was pretty simple and only required a few tools and some basic power saws to make the cuts. It also used all standard and easily accessible lumber to keep things easy.

One thing to note: I used untreated wood for this project since it was going to be under a large covered porch and won't be affected much by sun and/or rain. However, treated, cedar, or another more weather resistant option is recommended if yours will be exposed to the elements.

Some posts you may find helpful to check out before starting this project:

How to Make 2x2s from 2x4s:
How to Use a Pocket Hole Jig:
How to Cut Plywood Sheets:

*Keep in mind this project is to be replicated at your own risk. Since this will be installed in a ceiling, make sure you are confident that your application and hardware can hold the weight of both the swing and the people who will be in it.

The following contains affiliate links.


Tools and Materials:


Saw to cut straight lines--Can use miter, jig, or circular saw
Pocket Hole Jig (optional):
Saw to cut plywood (see step 7)--Can use jig or circular saw
Nail Gun (can use screws instead if you don't have one):
3/4" spade, hole saw, or forstener drill bit:

*Materials will vary based on the size porch swing bed you're building. Check printable plans below for specifics on each size. The following is based off a twin size.

(2) 2x2x8 boards:
(6) 2x4x10 boards:
(2) 2x6x8 boards:
(5) 1x4x8 boards:
(1) 1x6x8 board:
(1) sheet 1/2" or 3/4" plywood (optional):
1 1/4", 2", 2 1/2", 3" wood screws (use exterior rated if using outdoors)
2 1/2" pocket hole screws (use exterior rated if using outdoors):
Timber Screws (optional):
Wood Glue
(4) eye screws:
(4) carabiner clips:


Hey, guys, it's shira from woodshop diaries.

And today I want to show you how to build a twin size bed court suite.

Now this is a fairly large build, but it was pretty simple.

And it only took a day to put together.

So if you're ready to get building let's go a friend of mine recently asked me to build her a porch swing large enough to fit a twin size mattress, which is quite large.

But I must admit that it's a good size for napping.

So if it'll fit, I recommend it.

However, if a twin size is a little too big for your space, I'm sharing the plans for both a twin and a smaller crib size mattress swing at the link in the description.

So you've got a couple of sizing options as far as materials for the twin size.

I used five one by four by eight boards, one one by six by eight board, six two by four by ten boards and two two by six by eight boards.

Since my friend was using a thin foam mattress.

I did also purchase a sheet of three quarter inch plywood to give the seat some solid support.

But for a typical spring mattress, you likely won't need this piece.

I purchased these boards from my local lumber yard, this time, and they were a little rougher than I typically find at the big box store.

So I got all of the splinters for free.


I wanted to leave two quick notes about the materials here.

Notice that I'm using untreated pine spruce for this project.

This swing is going under a large covered porch.

And the way that it's positioned.

It won't really have any direct sunlight.

And it won't be subject to much if any rain.

So I just kept it lighter weight and cheaper by going with untreated lumber.

However, if you need more protection from the elements, in your case, this project would work fine with treated cedar redwood or just another more weather resistant option.

This project did call for using some two by twos in the build.

Now, you won't see the two by twos in my stack of materials, because I cut my own two by twos from two by fours using a table saw, however, if you don't have a table saw, you can definitely just use pre-cut two by twos from the store.

And that would work just fine.

You can find the materials list all of the details and the full plans in the link below.


So now that all of the information is covered, I think it's finally time to get to the fun stuff and let's start building.

This project started off with building a frame for the seat.

The front and back pieces were two by sixes.

And the shorter side pieces were two by fours.

I trimmed these boards down to length then assembled using two and seven eighths inch timber, screws, regular screws would work fine here.

But I had a few extra of these in the shop, and I just liked how the bigger black screw heads looked for this.

So I used them notice that I kept the two by fours flush to the bottom side of the two by sixes, the mattress will sit down into the frame, a little and rest on these two by fours.

Once the seat frame was together next.

I added two by fours at each corner again, regular wood, screws would work fine here.

But I just like the look of the timber screws next.

I attached two by twos between the two by fours using pocket holes and exterior grade pocket hole screws.

Now if you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can use four inch wood screws.

So the two by fours to secure these toenail, the screws by driving them at an angle or just simply screw these pieces on the top side of these two by fours instead of between them.

If you add these on top, you will need to make the vertical slats in the next step just a little bit longer, but it's, not a big deal.

Notice also that the back two by two is inset from the back edge about three quarter of an inch.

Once the two by twos were secure, it was time to add the slats.

I used 1 by 4 boards for the slats 5 on each side and 10 across the back.

So I've got 10 short pieces for the back and 10 longer pieces for the sides.

So what I'm going to do here for attaching? These is because I'm going to put a like 2x4 at the top here to trim and smooth all this top section out I'm just going to attach these with screws through the top.

So those will be covered with the 2x4 so I'm, not worried about it.

And then I'm just going to screw these in here and I'm going to come back with a 1x6 to trim it out so that it matches the thickness of the front piece.

Once they were cut to length.

I found the center of each 2x2 and started there working my way out using a scrap 1x4 piece to evenly space them.

I used 2 inch exterior wood screws at the top through the 2x2 supports making sure to pre-drill every hole.

Then I used the same screws to secure them at the bottom while you watch these slats come together.

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So you can start exploring today now, let's get back to the build notice that the slats on the sides are attached on the outside of the bottom frame.

But the slats on the back are attached to the inside of the bottom frame.

Once all the slats were in place.

I cut and attached two by fours along the top edge to act as an armrest and to cover up all the screw heads.

I used screws from the underside of the two by twos to attach these.

So you wouldn't see the screw heads from the top side.

Then I cut a piece of the 1x6 board to trim both sides of the swing.

This 1x6 will cover the screw heads from the slats and also match the 2x6 thickness on the front.

So it's, basically, just for looks.

I used the exterior grade wood glue on the slats and brad nails to attach to give the mattress some support.

I added some two by fours on the bottom using pocket holes and screws.

Now you don't have to use pocket holes here.

If you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can use regular or timber screws through the front and back supports instead.

I evenly spaced three supports along the bottom.

And if you're using a spring type mattress, this would probably be plenty of support.

But the foam mattress that my friend was using was a little flimsy.

So I actually cut a piece of three-quarter inch plywood to sit down into this frame on these supports, but I'll show you more of that in a minute.

Once these supports were in place.

I added the final pieces, which were the runners that the ropes will be tied to to hold the swing.

I cut two 2x4 boards, one for the front and one for the back so that they would overhang each side of the swing about six inches.

I screwed these in from the bottom side, using several screws into the frame of the swing.

Then I used an outdoor stain and sealant to just give it some color and protect the wood.

Once that was dry.

I could attach the ropes.


So I bought this rope kit that I'm gonna hang the swing with.

And it comes with four ropes, and I need to drill holes in the swing so that I can stick these through and tie a knot.

Oh, I guess I need to like measure this diameter.

I think the internet said, it's supposed to be like three-quarter that looks about right.

I bet this will drill a prettier hole than those spade bits will let's try this.

I used a three-quarter inch forstner bit to drill holes through the bottom, two by fours to slip the ropes through and tie a knot.

I will link the rope kit that I used for this in the description and what's cool about them is that they are totally adjustable.

So I could just tie them on.

And once we got it installed adjust the rope length as needed.

Now I forgot to charge my camera battery before we hung the swing.

So I didn't get the footage of actually installing it, but I'll explain to you what we did.

Basically, we just located the rafters in the ceiling that most closely matched the holes that I drilled to install the ropes.

Now, the rafters ended up being just a little bit wider than what the holes in the bottom of the swing for the ropes were so you'll, notice that the ropes do angle out a little, which is better than angling in.

Because if they angled in, they would rub the arm rest of the porch swing.

Once we located those rafters.

We just pre-drilled some holes to install some eye screws and then used these clips to clip between the eye screws and the rings on the rope kit.

These rope kits are really neat in that.

They are fully adjustable.

So in order to adjust, you just slide the rope up and down through these loops to get it higher or lower, depending on what you need.

Once we got the swing hung and put the foam mattress in that's when I realized that it needed a solid bottom.

So I went back and cut a piece of plywood to fit stained it to match and placed it in the swing now, depending on the type of mattress that you use here that may or may not be necessary.

But now it's ready for swinging napping or lounging all summer long, I'm.

So glad I now have a friend with a nice big porch swing.

So I can come over all the time and quote, unquote, borrow it.

This was such a fun project to put together.

And I really hope you enjoyed seeing it.

If you like this video, don't, forget to leave a thumbs up.

And if you'd like to see more be sure to subscribe and follow along, so you don't miss out on what's coming next also don't, forget to grab the plans to build your own in the link below thanks so much for watching friends.

And until next time, happy building.


What are the dimensions of a twin bed swing? ›

Specifications. Twin size Swing Bed Outside Dimensions: approx. 81.5" W x 41.5" D x 27" H.

How high to hang a porch twin bed swing? ›

Go ahead and attach the chains or rope to the swing and then hang each side to the ceiling hooks so that the seat is about 17-19 inches above the floor. Test your swing to make sure it hangs evenly and swings smoothly, and then all that's left to do is enjoy!

What height should a porch swing bed be? ›

Step 3: Set your Swing to a Preset Position

For bed swings, we recommend setting your swing to 21 inches above the floor to achieve a comfortable distance from the floor once the knot has been tightened and the weight of people sitting on it stretches the rope.

What is the best size for a porch swing? ›

The average size porch swing is between 4 and 6 feet in length, which comfortably seats 2 to 3 people. Seat depth varies widely, from 18 to 36 inches, according to This Old House. Anything less than 18 inches deep is generally considered too narrow to be comfortable.

How high should a porch swing frame be? ›

The hooks, screws eyes or eye bolts need to be installed 2 to 4 inches wider than the swing's length to ensure even weight distribution and prevent the chains from rubbing against the swing. Also, the swing should hang about 17 to 19 inches above the floor.

Should your feet touch the ground on a porch swing? ›

The ideal distance between the bottom of the porch swing and the ground is between 17 and 19 inches. This leg-swinging height can be lengthened or shortened based upon the swing user's preference/height. For instance, taller individuals may want to hang their swing a bit higher in order to give more leg room.

How far from wall should bed swing be? ›

For a bed swing you will need to use four large eye bolts for each corner and place the ceiling eye bolts directly above the corresponding eye bolts on the swing. You will also want to keep your swing at least 24 inches aways from any walls to avoid hitting them.

How far should a swing bed be from wall? ›

We suggest you have at least 18 inches of space behind the swing and 10 inches on the sides to allow for movement. Our swing fit guide can help you decide if a bed swing will fit your space.

What is the best wood for a porch swing? ›

Cedar and redwood are the most commonly selected wood for outdoor swing sets, and for good reason. These woods are known for being naturally resistant to disease, rot, and insect infestation. You will also find swing sets made of spruce, pine, or fir.

Will a 2x4 hold a porch swing? ›

If it was a short run of 2x4 and the swing was attached really well and the 2x4 is attached really well to something strong, yeah, it'll probably work, but if it were my house/family involved, I'd look for a stronger way to hang the swing.

How deep should a porch be for a porch swing? ›

A typical front porch should have a minimum depth of 6 feet. This is plenty of room for potted plants and a moderately-sized sitting area. If your goal, however, is to create a comfortable space for friends and family, a minimum depth of 8 to 10 feet is ideal.

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